The Natural Wine-Loving Neo-Bistro

Crostoni & Almond Tarator

Conjured up as a space by six friends to enjoy natural wines, Mosto has grown into a fixture in Berawa with its library of global low-intervention, independent labels and a dining programme spearheaded by seasoned chef Lorenzo De Petris.

The idea for Mosto began in 2022 with Isabella Rowell, Lorenzo De Petris, Nicolas Lento, Federico Sirito, Denny Bakiev, and Vanessa Di Maria, who are all part of The Mexicola Group, the collective behind dining and nightlife fixtures like Motel Mexicola, Da Maria, and Luigi’s. They began indulging in natural wines brought over from Australia, which inspired them to dream up a space to enjoy them.

It’s a quaint elbowroom in Berawa, designed by Kelvin Ho’s studio Akin Atelier. Inspired by the wine bar scene in Sydney and the neo-bistros of Paris, the all-white brick façade is as welcoming as the dimly lit interiors, a blend of raw materials like polished concrete, pebblecrete, and terracotta for a warmth emulating that of an artsy friend’s apartment.

Dining comes as a natural expansion of the experience. The programme is spearheaded by Executive Chef Lorenzo De Petris, whose résumé include MICHELIN-starred restaurants across England as well as famed kitchens in Australia and his hometown of Italy.

Lorenzo De petris, Vanessa Di Maria, Federico Sirito, Nicolas Lento, Isabella Rowell & Denny Bakiev

The menu, a collection of shareable plates, is an ode to communal dining; part owing to the space and its atmosphere, part chef’s recommendation (“It’s personally my favourite way to eat,” Lorenzo remarked). Following a penchant for exploring locality as part of his creative process, each dish surprises the taste buds with an unconventional flavour mix-and-match between Middle Eastern, East Asian, Indonesian, and of course, French and Italian.

Don’t be surprised if the savoury Chinese pastry xian bing gives way to a tender, robust lamb rendang filling enriched by cotija cheese. Embrace the daring spirit of the house-made Spaghetti Trafilati, tossed in a smoky and rich emulsion of peppery oil and roasted Parmigiano Reggiano, pleasantly cut by the herbaceous kick of kelor leaves. But, with a menu that keeps rotating, it’s best to come with no expectations and surrender to the evening’s surprise.

The French bistro style is most palpable at the bar, with exposed wire racks suspending upside down wine glasses. It acts as patrons’ first welcome; true to Mosto’s name, taken from the Italian word for the pulpy grape juice as base for wines. Backed by a glowing cellar, it is a proud showcase of over 70 labels from small producers globally, curated by seasoned sommelier Nicolas, with organic and low-intervention bottles (which you can find adorning shelves throughout the eatery) being the highlight.

Spaghetti Trafilati

Not sure which bottle to sample? The bartender is more than ready to strike a conversation and find one that best suits your specific tastes and preferences. For the most adventurous connoisseurs, though, let the day’s special take you on a discovery of a new label, one that you might not have heard of before.

Even those who aren’t the biggest fans of wines have something to enjoy here, courtesy of the Not Wine selections. These special cocktails are designed to emulate the crisp mouthfeel and translucent visage of wines while retaining the smorgasbord of flavours. Each concoction is clarified through milk punch processing, often with the addition of gelatin or agar-agar.

Those with a preference for dark spirits would appreciate the Pet Not, which alleviates the heaviness of whisky with the fruity acidity of umeshu and yuzu as well as the kick of some Amarena soda. Meanwhile, for something closer to tropical flavours, the White is a worthy choice. The mix of coconut rum, pandan, and pineapple might sound saccharine, but it’s rounded out by the smokiness of burnt butter for a pleasant balance.

Much like the ambience of Berawa, Mosto doesn’t take itself too seriously. You’re as likely to see diners filling up booths as patrons perched on the bar buzzing with conversations that spill to the drive-through-style window, or even people filing in and out just to get their favourite bottle home. It’s almost like you’re stopping by a housewarming party hosted by a group of friends who just want to share their love of natural wines (along with some delectable fare) with the neighbourhood.

Asia Dreams Volume 60


Mosto
Jalan Pantai Berawa, Tibubeneng
Bali 80361, Indonesia
T: (+62) 81356152611
W: mostobali.com
IG: @mostobali